Hot stones of Toledo

Wow, what a day. We began by dragging ourselves away from sleep earlier than any of us really wanted to do, and all because we hoped to have a full day in Toledo. Three metro trains and we figured out how to buy our tickets on the Renfe, like Amtrak rather than LIRR, but missed the 9:20 and waited for the 10:20 by exploring Atocha station. Did we remember that this is the place with the huge tropical botanic garden under the arching ceiling of the one-upon-a-time station? 

Well, actually it was the turtles swimming and basking that caught our attention first and the rest followed. We enjoyed a cool ride past vast dry stretches of land and olive groves.

Toledo station is down the hill and across the river from the medieval fortress town. We walked easily to the first Puerto (entry gate), and with great excitement explored the narrow winding streets as we ascended, descended and twisted all through town. The day got hotter and hotter. We drank all our water. In every situation we sought the shade at the edges of the streets and under awnings - of anything at all. Avoiding contact with hot walls, hot railings, sun baked steps. 

We observed the Cathedral from the outside, were impressed mostly with the totally tourist-oriented arrangements, and passed on paying admission (of nearly $50) for the four of us to enter. We have all been to cathedrals before. Instead we spent 10 Euros and went into the small church where the gorgeous El Greco remains in the place for which he painted it - evoking the soul of the former mayor (buried beneath it) as it rises to heaven. Then we sought out the synagogue that had been built for the Jews by the Moors, and later taken over by the Catholics. As J observed, "it is the space of a church without being a church at all." There was much admiration for the variety and quantity of hand forged ironwork, and guessing of which of the many inhabitants laid which layers of the stone.

From here, all of us a bit moved by the bittersweetness of the moment in time when the Muslims built the Jews a beautiful place of worship, we exited into heat of 41C equivalent to over 104F. The next part is a blur of random decision making that brought us to the oldest Puerto - built in 1571-1573 by the Visigoths, with the original metal doors remaining, as well as a shop with cold water, and a walk along the edge of the fortifications with a beautiful view of 1) a family of wild kittens, 2) a slope of parched sharp tongues of what we think might be agave, 3) the river below, its bridges and the world beyond the fortified city. We sought shade, and began the descent, only to finally discover the escalator for visitors to ascend without effort! So we took that with deep appreciation (having already given what it took to climb to the heights), and drifted down and out and further down and further out and across the river and back to the train station. 

Oh, did I forget to say that Russell bought some Toledo steel in the form of a knife? We visited the monastery where some craftsmen from the collective were demonstrating the fabrication of elaborate metal inlays. And there were swords and knives. So we nearly missed our train because the knife in Rob's bag was not in a box, though clearly wrapped as a souvenir. With minutes before the train was to depart, we dashed into the shop at the station, begged the woman there to help us, which she did by taking a piece of cardboard and taping it around the knife. Saved at the edge.

Worn, hot, and ready to stay in, we plan a salad with various additions for supper before the boys might go out for a late night with our local friend of similar age! We'll see what happens when it happens. Tomorrow we hope for a slow cool morning of laundry and croissants with cheese and jam and coffee at home in Madrid.