Walking Barcelona Day One

Softly cloud covered skies at 7 AM, and the sound of loud engines zooming past our living room. Of course we have the windows open because it is the moving air that makes this apartment feel so nice! Rob and I went over maps, marking places we want to visit and places that were recommended to us, while making several small Italian espresso pots of coffee on the electric stove. We're getting the hang of it but it is definitely a new morning protocol. Delicious coffee from the local corner grocery store with heated milk and a dash of sugar, this is our European coffee style. The boys still take it black.

Once the boys were up, we started our outside day -- at lunchtime, 1:30 PM!! A quick train ride took us down into the old section of town, and we wandered, stumbling on Carrer de Freixures directly into the studio of a wonderful potter, Carme Balada del Romero (carmebalada.com). Each of us bought something there from which to drink and remember being here together. Then a most amazing lunch - really outstanding and fantastic and each item unbelievably specific, precise, fresh and perfectly prepared Cuine Santa Caterina (cuinessantacaterina.com/) at the Mercato Santa Caterina, which was actually closed on Mondays. We ate the best patatas bravas ever, and pimentos, and roasted pork on applesauce, and fried brie on arugula with vinagrette and again the best pan con tomate so far ... the Casa Vella red wine (Penedes)..yum.

It may have been the ecstatic state we were in after lunch, but we wound up in a very special candle shop and then walked along a Roman wall down to the waterfront, all along the waterfront to the Ramblas, up the crowded streets to a respite in the Placa Reial with its sweet early Gaudi lamps, then a glance at the facade of the Palau Guell. While standing there, a couple of English tourists asked if we knew whether the house would be open for visits tomorrow, and turns out they had just been to MACBA - the modern art museum designed by Richard Meier and still had their stickers on their shirts. The next thing I knew, Rob and I had their stickers on our shirts and were on our way to MACBA.

The boys needed a breather from tagging along, and investigated a bit around El Raval, seeking clubbing possibilities for the evening, and we basked in the light and cubic concepts of the art museum building while exploring the Matta-Clark exhibition and the works of Rita McBride. Lovely. The boys were waiting to snag us outside as the museum closed, and we took the train back to the hood -- picking up materials for our dinner at home. We bought our fresh salad materials and fruits from a local shopkeeper who spoke no English, and whose produce tastes like the sun. Having wandered in and started shopping, we realized we had hardly any cash on us! He assured us it was cheap, no worries, and we got everything for about 5 Euros - so we added a 4 Euro bottle of wine and spent every cent we had. Lucky for us there are bank ATMs everywhere, and our pin&chip Euro-loaded card has been fantastic for withdrawing Euros and making purchases. Evening meal with another great salad, chicken with herbs in puff pastry, cheese, olives, wonderful fresh tomatoes and bread. Ahh, under 30 Euros and there are delicious things waiting for us for breakfast...                                                    Richard Meier, MACBA

Rita McBride Ramp

Gordon Matta-Clark Splitting 7

Day one ends with the moon in the sky, Dylan on the stereo, the boys hanging out the balcony with a cigar as I went to bed. Tomorrow we tackle the washing machine, and climb Montjuic.

From Apartment to Apartment

Our little apartment became an island in a huge market. Our square had a good bit of second hand stuff and all the streets around had booths of mostly new. We heard the sounds of setting up starting after 7am. 

Our Madrid Apartment at el Rastro

Packed and ready to go, we headed out to look around the hood. All week the little spot on the corner opposite our door has been a constant work in progress. Late last night they hung the signs, the billboard announcing their sandwiches and this morning they opened.

el Rastro flea market 

Sunday morning only

Our last trip to the Madrid airport took us to T-2 and an immense line to check in for Air Europa. At last we discovered the automatic check in machines! Then the incredibly long walk to the ends of the world where our departure gate appeared. The plane arrived just before our scheduled departure, so we ate a Subway sandwich while waiting. Good thing too because the next food was patatas bravado across from Sagrada Familia.

Sagrada Familia by Antonio Gaudi

Barcelona feels quite different from Madrid! A more sprawling, urban sense and more fast moving cars. We arrived to be delighted by our new home on the 4th floor. Dinner at home was a combination of delicious discoveries in nearby bakeries - spinach tarte, chicken tarte, onion turnover- plus wine and salad makings left for us by our hosts. We hope they enjoy arriving at our place too. 

A view out our Barcelona apartment 

I have to say that flying in felt wonderful with a great view of the sea coast and beach land and the hills in the distance too. Roads are broad here, plazas huge.

Not clear what tomorrow brings, but we are ready for it with the most rudimentary supplies in hand- milk, coffee, jam and bread. The only other thing we need might be a good map - and that we also have, along with 10 trip metro  cards. Let the first sleep in Barcelona begin.

Separate Ways

Resting after our travels yesterday, we all caught up with ourselves this morning. Rob went to the Prado - one of the places he wanted to see "before he dies" - and returned saturated with Goya and Velasquez. He revisited the Van der Weyden and sought out the Fra Angelico. 

I caught up on laundry, hanging out our colors on the lines outside the window and marveled at how fast two loads dry in the warm breeze. The boys slept.

Afternoon starts so late! We wandered out "a cuatro" and found a nice Italian pizza place on our way towards the University area, with fresh salads and herb infused pizzas. We had as our object a surprising change of pace, an Egyptian temple in a park on a rise of land overlooking the university city park on the West side of town. The Templo de Debod was started in 2200BC and moved to Spain after the Aswan Dam threatened it, similar to the one at the Metropolitan Museum in NYC. It is said that Isis gave birth to Horus in this Temple.

Wandering brought us to a neighborhood square with cafes and a restaurant. The tables began filling up around 9pm as the hot sun retreated fully from the square. Dogs and children accompanied the locals who drank various gins mixed with various mixers. Our waiter was a muscled tattooed character whose beard was sculpted into a large star on each cheek. He was the apple of one small dog's eye, a charming scene all around. The dog was a dead ringer for TinTin's Snowy.

The route home included a tour past the Opera and through Mercado de San Miguel tasting crocettas and paella. Rob and I enjoyed a midnight cleaning house salad of lettuce, chick peas, onions and oranges and the boys went out to drink and explore. They left their phones at home and told the time of night by what was still open and what was closed.

Bilbao: a museum, a bridge, a view

Up in the dark with only a few hours of sleep (4 at most) we had a remarkably smooth rising and flying to Bilbao. (A bit strange for New Yorkers to catch the metro just after it opens … as our New York system never closes. We have noted how much cleaner the whole system is here.) A small prosperous city in the Northwest of Spain,  Bilbao is Basque in temperament, more precise, clean and organized than Madrid. We had an initial setback upon arrival at the little Calatrava  structure, Russell felt dreadful – a short but bumpy flight on little sleep and no breakfast (the rest of us ate first).  He recovered enough for us to catch the bus into town, meeting two young Japanese cyclists while waiting. They had brought their bikes for a nearby competition.

Frank Gehry's Guggenheim Museum,  Bilbao, Spain

We all liked Bilbao right away. Even the quick breakfast snack at the airport was delicious and regional.  There was relief in the river, the breezes, the open spaces with benches and plantings, the width of sidewalks and of course the views. Mountains to the East, a lush quality in the surrounding hills, and the gleaming sun on Gehry’s Guggenheim museum.

Gehry's atrium - looking up 

Sarah with Serra

Calatrava's foot bridge

We decided to do our walking before the day’s heat, photographing the exterior and then walking across the Calatrava pedestrian bridge to take the funicular. This little vertical train cost 1.20Euros one way – and was not only thrilling but spectacular once we arrived at the top. A lovely circular park gave us true vistas of the entire city and it’s surroundings, with shade and cool winds too. Openness of mind and spirit is easier in such a place.

Bilboa's funicular

We plunged back into town for a strange Chinese lunch, and to visit the museum. The entryway was exciting and all four of us were taken by the vast expanse of Serra’s huge pieces all in one space. We continued to the exhibitions, checked out the rest of the structure and then sought a place to get out of a light sprinkle of rain, and rest until catching the airport bus once again. Tapas by default and a quiet hazy sunset at the airport.

Perhaps there will be energy to make a salad at home upon our arrival, perhaps not, but we bought fresh bread in Bilbao for the morning. A slow one is planned – with Prado for Rob and a search for a good last meal in Madrid. We are all ready to move on to Barcelona and see what awaits us there.

Jeff Koon's Puppy

A Wide Swath of Madrid

Morning croissants from the grocery store come in a plastic box of six. With orange marmalade they are delicious, especially after perfectly ripe melon slices. Rob and I were out and immersed in 12th-20th century masterpieces at the Thyssen-Bornemisza museum by 11 am.  The boys were still home at 1:30 when we came back for lunch.

Great to have food at home before heading out again. Couldn't convince the younger duo to come out with us to investigate the ABC museum of illustration in a clever new building near the university, nor wander the Malasana with us.

We enjoyed it so much! The graffiti and modern insertions, the local bakery and art supply stores. Then we took the metro to the southern entrance of El Retiro and wandered the length of this park finding the plantings interesting, the dryness remarkable, the number of cute cats and kittens awesome! At the "Lake" a young man performed flamenco on a board to match his friend's drum rhythms and earn a few Euros.

When we got home, we heard the exploits of the younger duo - who had also headed out towards El Retiro only to discover that they had gotten out of the subway several stops past the park.  They explored the suburban urban area and found their way back, orienting by the tall radio tower nearby. Turns out we were in the same place at almost the same time, photographing the same strange trees in the bright glare. Rob took on the challenge of taking a chance at simulating "Atget photos," shooting in black and white.

Then we had a little rest with foot and face washing and a beer and went out for the best dinner of the trip by far -- Naia in Place de la Paja.  Our delightful waitress was from Barcelona! She treated us so well and the food was yummy.  Home to bed, setting alarms for 5 AM!!

Hot stones of Toledo

Wow, what a day. We began by dragging ourselves away from sleep earlier than any of us really wanted to do, and all because we hoped to have a full day in Toledo. Three metro trains and we figured out how to buy our tickets on the Renfe, like Amtrak rather than LIRR, but missed the 9:20 and waited for the 10:20 by exploring Atocha station. Did we remember that this is the place with the huge tropical botanic garden under the arching ceiling of the one-upon-a-time station? 

Well, actually it was the turtles swimming and basking that caught our attention first and the rest followed. We enjoyed a cool ride past vast dry stretches of land and olive groves.

Toledo station is down the hill and across the river from the medieval fortress town. We walked easily to the first Puerto (entry gate), and with great excitement explored the narrow winding streets as we ascended, descended and twisted all through town. The day got hotter and hotter. We drank all our water. In every situation we sought the shade at the edges of the streets and under awnings - of anything at all. Avoiding contact with hot walls, hot railings, sun baked steps. 

We observed the Cathedral from the outside, were impressed mostly with the totally tourist-oriented arrangements, and passed on paying admission (of nearly $50) for the four of us to enter. We have all been to cathedrals before. Instead we spent 10 Euros and went into the small church where the gorgeous El Greco remains in the place for which he painted it - evoking the soul of the former mayor (buried beneath it) as it rises to heaven. Then we sought out the synagogue that had been built for the Jews by the Moors, and later taken over by the Catholics. As J observed, "it is the space of a church without being a church at all." There was much admiration for the variety and quantity of hand forged ironwork, and guessing of which of the many inhabitants laid which layers of the stone.

From here, all of us a bit moved by the bittersweetness of the moment in time when the Muslims built the Jews a beautiful place of worship, we exited into heat of 41C equivalent to over 104F. The next part is a blur of random decision making that brought us to the oldest Puerto - built in 1571-1573 by the Visigoths, with the original metal doors remaining, as well as a shop with cold water, and a walk along the edge of the fortifications with a beautiful view of 1) a family of wild kittens, 2) a slope of parched sharp tongues of what we think might be agave, 3) the river below, its bridges and the world beyond the fortified city. We sought shade, and began the descent, only to finally discover the escalator for visitors to ascend without effort! So we took that with deep appreciation (having already given what it took to climb to the heights), and drifted down and out and further down and further out and across the river and back to the train station. 

Oh, did I forget to say that Russell bought some Toledo steel in the form of a knife? We visited the monastery where some craftsmen from the collective were demonstrating the fabrication of elaborate metal inlays. And there were swords and knives. So we nearly missed our train because the knife in Rob's bag was not in a box, though clearly wrapped as a souvenir. With minutes before the train was to depart, we dashed into the shop at the station, begged the woman there to help us, which she did by taking a piece of cardboard and taping it around the knife. Saved at the edge.

Worn, hot, and ready to stay in, we plan a salad with various additions for supper before the boys might go out for a late night with our local friend of similar age! We'll see what happens when it happens. Tomorrow we hope for a slow cool morning of laundry and croissants with cheese and jam and coffee at home in Madrid.

New Encounters

Shops open Tuesday mornings, slowing down our walking even past our local square. Antiques and jewelry, decorated boxes and flamenco shoes, even grocery stores turn our heads. Yet we manage to explore across the older part of town to Plaza de Major. Standing in the shade to get out of the brilliant hot sun and the lenses of every tourist pointed towards the center of the square, we see a familiar face from Troy, NY as she takes the camera down from her face.  This, just after a conversation between the boys that there are so many people around it feels that one would see someone they know.

Cutting a quick path through the most touristic areas, Plaza Sant Ana and past a wholesale area full of Asian shops with watches and scarves, we find our way to the beautiful design of Herzog and de Meuron -- the Caixa Forum.  Balanced between ancient and the future, this was pure fun and with free admission, some of us sat on cushioned benches resting our feet while others wandered and took images. Lunch was another adventure - seduced by a delightful waitress who came out on the hot sidewalk to draw us in with a coupon for a free bottle of wine with our lunch! Who could refuse that? We did not.

Waltzing into the Prado, no waiting, no lines, with free faculty and student admission to encourage us, we descended into the world of Van der Weyden, El Bosco, El Greco, and Campin, Memling. Intricate Garden of Earthly Delights and the view of Hell, the vast concept of grace and loss portrayed in the Descent from the Cross, we stood astonished even by the stone marquetry in one table after another. Our plan to meet a friend took us into Starbucks to check the internet, and sure enough, the plan had changed and we went home to rest before a Tapas wander in our neighborhood - La Latina having a choice selection along C/de la Cava Baja. One delicious morsel after another, good talk,  we caught up with our  young friend and his girlfriend, even meeting visitors from Detroit along the way.

Alive at night, Madrid seems to offer open gathering places in every neighborhood including our own little square as we found our way home. Tomorrow, the train to Toledo.